SeedAndSprouts

Surefire Ways to Keep Critters Out of Garden

keep critters out of garden

A discussion about garden pests would be incomplete without including the beasts that may cause problems in your garden, such as deer, rabbits, and groundhogs. 

Although insect eating is more subtle and causes gradual damage, some of these larger creatures can quickly kill an entire plant — or row of plants. 

This guide examines the most common animal pests as well as the steps you may take to keep critters out of garden.

So, let’s get into it.

1

Deer

deer in the garden area

Examine affected plants thoroughly to spot deer damage. Because deer lack upper front teeth, they chop plant tissue rather than cut it, producing ragged edges. Deer prefer sensitive new growth when it is available, but in the winter they eat buds and twigs. They prefer to feed on the outskirts of woodland regions, where they can duck for cover if threatened.

There are several sorts of repellents that may keep deer away of your yard: 

  • Soap: Hang soap bars from low tree branches or poles so that they are about 30 inches off the ground.
  • Hair: Request some hair trimmings from your barber or hairdresser. Deer can be deterred by hanging human hair in mesh bags about 3 feet off the ground.
  • Spray: Spray repellents on the foliage. One recipe: Combine three raw eggs in a gallon of water and spray on plants. This compound appears to smell worse to deer than it does to humans.
  • Fencing: A tall fence is the only definite way to keep deer out of your garden. Deer have been known to jump 10-foot fences, but most intruders will be deterred by an 8-foot barrier unless they are extremely hungry.

2

Rabits

rabbit sitting in the garden area

They usually stick to a narrow zone — 10 acres or fewer — and don’t venture out. They live in natural cavities in trees, abandoned burrows of other animals, brush piles, and under structures. They nibble the foliage of nearly any plant, returning day and night to complete the task.

In the spring and summer, rabbits prefer to consume vegetables and flowers; budding tulips are a favorite spring delight. They prefer twigs and bark in the autumn and winter and can do significant damage to landscaping trees and shrubs. Wild rabbits can tear the bark off young trees up to 212 feet above the ground; snow cover encourages them to reach higher. 

Here are several methods for thwarting their feeding: 

  • Fencing is the most effective approach to keep rabbits away from your plants. Because they burrow, a barrier must reach underground as well. Choose a 4-foot-high, 1-inch-mesh chicken-wire fence. Bury the fence’s bottom foot, bending the bottom 6 inches into a straight angle pointing outward. 
  • Trunk shields: A cylinder of 14-inch hardware cloth or equivalent wire mesh can be used to protect tree trunks. (Though larger mesh works better for rabbits, the 14-inch size also protects trees from chewing mice.) The material should be a few inches away from the trunk and high enough so that rabbits standing on snow cannot get over it.
  • Repellents: You can buy commercially produced repellents. Commercial repellents for spraying on the ground or directly on plants are available. Because most of these sprays repel by taste, use them exclusively on ornamental plants and strictly adhere to the label guidelines.

3

Groundhogs

ground hog in the garden area

These sluggish rodents, also known as woodchucks and whistle pigs, dwell in a vast network of underground dens and tunnels that defy you to locate all of their tunnel openings. A tunnel can be approximately 70 feet long. If you find a mound of dug earth surrounding a foot-wide hole, you’re most likely looking at the entryway to a groundhog burrow.

Scan your environment in the morning and evening hours if you suspect groundhogs. The animals are fairly brave, and you might catch a thief red-handed.

 Here are some examples of deterrents: 

  • Fencing: Groundhogs can climb almost as effectively as they can dig down, so build a robust 4- or 5-foot fence and bury the bottom 18 inches underground. To prevent a groundhog from climbing over, bend the top of the fence outward. Two strands of electric fence, one 4 inches above the ground and the other 8 inches high could also keep them out.
  • Repellents: Groundhogs don’t seem to be scared off by typical repellant sprays, however, hot pepper wax sprays may be able to discourage groundhogs.
  • Traps: A Havahart trap can be used to capture a live groundhog and then release it back into the wild. Groundhogs cannot survive in woody places, thus releasing it in a suitable habitat, such as an open grassy field, will almost certainly result in its death. Usually, this environment is going to be someone’s backyard or a farm field, and the landowner isn’t going to be too grateful for your gift.

4

Gophers

gopher in the garden area

These rodents that burrow reside in tunnel networks that might be 200 yards long. They consume plant roots and bulbs while feeding below, occasionally coming out to consume the above-ground sections of the plants close to the tunnel entrances. 

One gopher species is native to the Southeast, although the majority of gopher species inhabit the western two-thirds of the nation. Don’t attribute your garden’s issues in New England to gophers. A group of fan-shaped soil mounds, with new mounds developing every day, is the telltale indication of gophers. You won’t see a tunnel opening since the rodents keep them covered with dirt. Gophers are challenging to terrify or drive away. They might be repelled by castor oil sprayed on the garden. 

If gophers are a significant issue, you might wish to go to the bother of lining your garden’s bottom and sides with hardware cloth (at a depth of 2 feet) to keep the rodents away. Commercially available wire baskets that are gopher-resistant can be inserted into planting holes before planting. Use traps for recurring issues.

5

Mice and Voles

mouse attacking in the garden

Mice and voles have similar appearances. Both are little rodents, but a vole’s tail is significantly shorter than a mouse’s. Mice love young seedlings, especially those growing in a heated house or greenhouse on a chilly winter day; nonetheless, they are omnivores and will consume practically everything. Voles, on the other hand, are virtually herbivores and are the more difficult pest for gardeners to control. 

In the winter, when food is scarce and the bark of your favorite tree provides an easy meal, both mice and voles cause plant damage. Fruit plants are especially vulnerable. Even in the summer, a thick layer of mulch surrounding the tree right up to the trunk allows rats to hide and feed undetected. Allow several inches between the mulch and the tree trunk to prevent them from finding a place to hide and discourage feeding.

Remove all mulch around trees and shrubs in the winter if required, because animals prefer not to forage in the open where predators can locate them. Snow cover also provides a place to hide. If voles are a concern, wrap the trunks of young trees with a wire or plastic tree guard.

6

Moles and Skunks

ole in the garden aream

In the world of garden pests, these creatures are the innocent bystanders or the innocent borrowers. Moles are predators and do not consume vegetation, in contrast to voles. They only enjoy digging underground to find grubs, earthworms, and other insects. They unintentionally expose plant roots to the air or force the plants out of the earth, which both result in plant death.

Moles create two different kinds of tunnels: shallow tunnels that are visible as elevated ridges in your grass and deeper tunnels that connect the shallow tunnels. Moles build the distinctive rounded, volcanic-like mounds of earth while excavating the deep tunnels. The tunnels may also be used by field mice or voles to scavenge for plant roots and flower bulbs.

7

Squirrels

arden squirrel near plantsg

Squirrels are so daring that you’ll probably find them digging in your garden. Because crocus and tulip bulbs are like sweets to them, these bold, swift critters may be a real problem, especially in newly planted bulb beds. In addition, they frequently consume fruit, nuts, berries, saplings, and bark. Squirrels are impossible to permanently kill. Current residents will be replaced by new ones if you expel them.

However, you can try deterrents like putting foul-smelling sprays on your favorite plants. Cover newly planted beds with chicken wire to preserve your bulbs in the autumn; come April, the bulbs will sprout straight through it. Additionally, make sure you plant bulbs at the appropriate depth and avoid leaving any bulb debris—such as bits of the papery outer covering—on the soil surface because this will entice squirrels. Sprinklers that are activated by motion can provide immediate assistance.

8

Raccoons

raaccon in the garden area

Raccoons like eating just about anything. Just as you are about to go out and harvest your maize, they seem to appear out of nowhere to steal your fruit. In order to find grubs, they dig up your lawn like skunks do, harming the plants in the process. Repellents and sprinklers with motion detectors may offer sufficient defense to let your crops ripen. Grub management on the grass can also be beneficial.

9

Armadillos

armadillo in the garden area

When they don’t decide to destroy your lawn in quest of insects and grubs, armadillos can be rather cute. These animals can climb and dig, but a fence that slopes outward and extends 1 foot into the earth and 2 feet aboveground may be able to keep them out of your yard.

Although they have weak eyesight, armadillos have a keen sense of smell. Try scaring them away by scattering human hair across your garden or by installing a low electric fence.

10

Birds

bird sitting in the garden area

Garden birds can be both a blessing and a curse. Although you may accept their affinity for insects, when they start gorging on ripe blueberries and tomatoes, they start to become a nuisance. Row covers or bird netting can be draped over your plants to deter birds from eating them, but this tactic isn’t always feasible. Birds can be startled by noise, fluttering objects, and anything that looks like a predator.

Consider edging your lawn using strings attached to stakes, along with aluminum pie plates or discarded CDs. Birds may flee due to the loudness and sun flashing on the bright surfaces. Use a thin nylon line instead of a string if you want; it will hum and vibrate in the breeze.

It’s time to take action!

The first step to keep critters out of garden is to know about them. And you’ve successfully taken that step. 

Protecting your garden from critters requires a combination of preventive measures and organic practices. With the help of the practices given in this guide, you can keep the critters at bay and have a healthy, thriving garden.

Remember to stay vigilant and adapt as needed!

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